Which items are good for compost
Organic garden and kitchen waste should not end up in the garbage can, but rather processed into compost. The result is an excellent material that is returned to the garden to improve the soil. Your garden will be happy about it, and the garbage can will be relieved. A distinction is made between quick compost and mature compost.
Rapid compost: This is ready to use after approx. 6 - 8 weeks and can be used to supply the plants with nutrients. it smells of forest soil and is dark brown crumbly. Quick compost is an ideal soil improver. The production of quick compost takes place in the thermal composter.
Ripe compost: If a compost heap is stored for at least a year, mature compost is created. This earthed compost has little fertilizer value, but can be used well as potting soil for sowing and for growing young plants.
Compost silo and thermal composter
Compost organic garden waste with the thermal composter
- Coarse and bulky garden waste, such as B. tree and shrub cuttings, vegetable stalks, etc. are shredded to a size suitable for compost. The use of a chopper is ideal here.
- The shredded waste is carefully mixed with moist, nutrient-rich material such as lawn clippings.
- The resulting mixture is inoculated with a composting agent. This means that all of the microorganisms that are important for rapid composting get into the mixture.
- Fill the resulting mixture into the thermal composter. After 2 - 3 weeks, the compost is vigorously mixed with a digging fork and, if necessary, moistened.
The right moisture is automatically retained in a balanced mix of materials.
Compost lawn clippings in the thermal composter
- Grass clippings are very wet and are therefore mixed with woody material. This loosens the mass and makes it air-permeable. A mixture with dry leaves or bark mulch is also suitable.
- Now this mixture is mixed with a composting agent and filled into the thermal composter. In the active phase of rotting, temperatures of up to 70 ° C arise.
- After 2 - 3 weeks, the compost mass is again stirred well and, if necessary, moistened.
Composting with the compost silo
- Choose a sheltered, partially shaded location to set up the silo. The subsurface must not be sealed with concrete or any other material.
- After the subsoil has been loosened, a first approx. 20 cm thick ventilation layer made of tree and hedge cuttings comes into it. The next layers should consist of wet and then dry material. Layers of green matter are powdered with stone powder and layers of earth with algae lime. Additional inoculation with microorganisms accelerates the rotting process.
- A top layer of earth, leaves or straw protects against heat loss.
If the humidity is too high, there is insufficient ventilation, the temperature drops and there is a risk of rot. If the humidity is too low, the microorganisms rest and the composting process does not start.
What is allowed on the compost and what is not!
Everything can be put on the compost!
Leaves, fruit scraps, flower scraps, lawn clippings, hedge and shrub cuttings, garden waste, coffee grounds, vegetable waste, hair and feathers, dry eggshells, manure from stable animals and pets, wood ash, hay, potatoes, beets, bones, flower pot soil, sawdust, tea leaves , Nettle, weeds (not blooming), tree bark.
Don't put it on the compost!
Textiles, rags, faeces, stones, broken glass, metal, glossy paper, plastic parts, meat waste, composite materials.
Some substances have to be shredded before composting, such as bones, paper, tree bark. Some of the materials are dry and can be used to regulate if there is too much moisture. Try a balanced mix.
Important compost rule
Organic garden and kitchen waste does not belong in the rubbish bin, but in the compost bin or compost silo. However, there are exceptions. Sick plants, especially plants afflicted with fungal diseases, must not be placed on the compost. Often you can recognize these fungal diseases by the discoloration that occurs on the leaves. The fungal spores would find an ideal environment to survive and multiply in the compost. The cycle would bring them back into the garden.
Well shredded is half composted
For composting woody, coarse garden waste, such as B. tree pruning, the use of a chopper is particularly useful. The shredder helps make gardening work easier, especially when there are large stocks of shrubs and trees. Only sufficiently shredded material enables the high temperature required for rotting in compost. The chopped material is fed in via the feed hopper and shredded by the chopping unit, which consists of a knife or knife roller. For rapid rot it is important that the material is crushed and frayed. This enables the microorganisms to do their job better. Make sure that no stones or hard objects get into the chopping mechanism. Even high quality knives will be damaged as a result.
When working with garden shredders, always follow the manufacturer's safety instructions. In any case, wear work gloves and protective goggles, because the chopped material can lash out in an uncontrolled manner.
Mulching reduces weed growth
The chopped material is indispensable as an addition to composting. With large stands of wood, there are also large amounts of chopped material. This can be applied directly from the chopper to garden paths, under bushes, perennials, etc. The material greatly reduces weed growth. Over time, the mulch material breaks down and loosens the soil. Furthermore, the earth under the mulch cover remains nice and moist, as the rainwater can seep through, but not evaporate. You can spread the mulch material evenly over the beds and thus loosen up the soil. It is easily incorporated with a rake and composted very quickly when it comes into contact with the ground.
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